Almora: Hidden in the heart of Uttarakhand’s Kumaon Himalayas is Crank’s Ridge, a place that has long enchanted poets, artists, philosophers, and musicians. Over the years, this mystical landscape has attracted luminaries such as DH Lawrence and Uma Thurman, with the latter even acquiring her name here.
Crank’s Ridge, also known as Hippie Hill, is a pine-covered ridge on the way to Kasar Devi Temple, located above Almora—the ancient capital of Kumaon. Crank’s Ridge has served as a sanctuary for great minds in search of creativity and spiritual awakening. Nestled on the eastern edge of Almora, the ridge has played host to some of history’s most celebrated figures, making it a magnet for intellectual exploration and artistic rebellion.
DH Lawrence’s summers of inspiration
One of the earliest literary giants to arrive at Crank’s Ridge was DH Lawrence, the celebrated author of ‘Lady Chatterley’s Lover’. He spent two summers in Almora, drawn by the artistic allure of Earl and Acshah Brewster, a couple who built their home and studio on the ridge. While Acshah painted, Brewster focused on compiling a book on the life of the Buddha, embracing the spiritual resonance of the landscape. Lawrence, deeply influenced by his time here, found Almora to be a haven for his creative impulses.
Celebrities and counterculture icons on Hippie Hill
As the world moved into the swinging sixties and seventies, Crank’s Ridge became a thriving hub of counterculture. Among its many visitors were Bob Dylan and Cat Stevens, who found artistic inspiration in its serene atmosphere. Beat generation poet Allen Ginsberg, a friend of counterculture leader Timothy Leary, also arrived here in 1962, describing the landscape as “a little like the Catskills in Upstate New York, only more spiritual.”
British musician George Harrison of ‘The Beatles’ also spent time here, exploring the depths of Indian classical music. His stay at Crank’s Ridge influenced some of The Beatles’ greatest work, including Within You, Without You and India, India.
Uma Thurman’s Himalayan connection
The ridge’s reputation for attracting creative souls continued into the late 20th century. Robert Thurman, a Buddhist scholar, and his wife Nena von Schlebrugge arrived at Crank’s Ridge with their three-year-old daughter, Uma Thurman. Thurman’s deep immersion in Buddhism and Almora’s Drikung Kagyu Monastery led to his daughter receiving the name Uma, inspired by the region’s spiritual essence. She later rose to fame as a Hollywood actress, starring in films such as Kill Bill and Pulp Fiction.
A magnet for mystics and seekers
Crank’s Ridge remains an intellectual and spiritual retreat, resting within a gap in the Van Allen Belt, a rare space conducive to transcendental experiences. Alongside Machu Picchu in Peru and Stonehenge in England, this location’s unique magnetic field properties continue to intrigue seekers from around the world. Swami Vivekananda meditated here in the 1890s, drawn by the spiritual energy of Kasar Devi Temple, a shrine dating back to the 2nd century.
Legends, mystics, and creative visionaries alike have left their mark on Crank’s Ridge, ensuring its legacy as a timeless source of inspiration. As the ridge continues to attract dreamers, it stands as a testament to the enduring magic of Almora, where history, art, and spirituality merge into a landscape of divine discovery.
